I’m fascinated by how men’s style in this country has changed over the years. Gone are the days when movie stars such as Gary Cooper or Cary Grant were icons of masculinity to be emulated. When I was a kid growing up in Chicago, the men that I saw wore suits, ties, and hats most of the time and we had to dress up to go downtown. I don’t bemoan today’s much more casual lifestyle in which inexpensive, mass-produced clothing made in countries with much cheaper labor dominates, but I’m also interested in the growing number of American-made high quality products that cater to a new generation of American males. Some of these companies are redefining masculinity and what it means to dress well. Gregory Caruso’s new documentary, Making the American Man, delves into the creative minds of the young American artisans and entrepreneurs who are leading this movement. The film features more than 35 designers and tastemakers who are helping to define what classic masculinity looks like today. I spoke with Gregory Caruso about his documentary which is now available on Netflix.
Danny Miller: I’m not exactly a style maven, to say the least, but I have to say that coveted nearly ever item that I saw in this film!
Gregory Caruso: That was the tough part, everywhere we’d go, we’d leave with something. We actually started with just 10 companies on the west coast but then it snowballed because the owners of these companies kept telling us about places where fine craftsmanship was going on in other parts of the country. We ended up in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle, Portland, Chicago, Detroit, New York, Dallas, and several other cities.
What made you want to tackle this topic in the first place?
I’ve always appreciated good American-made clothing. Probably because of the way my dad and grandfather dressed — they wore suits to work every day. Even at an early age I started getting interested in how pants should break and what shoes you should wear with what belt and things like that.
The products you feature in the film are very cool but I know many people would look at some of them and use the dreaded “h” word — hipster! Or say that men interested in such fine things were “metrosexuals.” Did you consciously avoid those terms in the making of the film?
Some of the people brought up those words, but in general I try not to pay attention to such labels in life. I do think there’s been a shift with those labels, though, and that people don’t mind them as much as they used to. I mean, if you’re going to use the term “metrosexuals,” you’re going to have to call people like Cary Grant, Clark Gable, and Gary Cooper by that name since they clearly took such pride in the way they look.
It’s funny you mention that particular trio because those are the three names I wrote down as I was watching your film. They certainly represent the masculine ideal of dressing well, looking good, and being comfortable in your skin. The high cost of many of the products featured in the film can lead to the sense that these things are kind of elitist. How do you respond to that?
We didn’t try to shy away from that, these items are definitely more expensive. You can discuss how they’re way more durable and how much longer they last. I would say that some of these items are investments and can make you think more about which products you choose which is not a bad thing. I think people cherish them in a different way than they do mass-made items. But it’s certainly true that if these American companies are going to take the time to make a high quality product, it’s going to cost more.
Some of the distinctions in my own head are kind of arbitrary. Nothing on earth could make me pay $200 or more for a pair of jeans, but I would pay more for a very high quality pair of shoes. I coveted the ones, for example, from Oak Street Bootmakers in Chicago.
Those are amazing!
I was interested in the different people’s perspectives on masculinity. I’m sure some of their definitions create some lively discussion for people seeing the movie.
We were constantly talking with the women on our set before and after those interviews to see what they thought. There definitely wasn’t always agreement on the points that were raised but I wanted to show all the different ways that people define masculinity and not just my own subjective view.
What is your own definition?
While I’m interested in looking good and having a certain style, I don’t think the way you look has that much to do with the way you are as a human being. I mean, I think it maters how you present yourself and how comfortable you are in the clothes that you wear, but in terms of masculinity, I would say it’s more about standing for and doing what’s right. It’s as simple as that. Taking responsibility for your actions.